Monday, 16 February 2009
So good night Vienna
The modern way into Pamplona is to go through the park, down a dusty track
that appears to be through small holdings following the river until you
come to the bridge over it that takes you into the area of town that is
nearest the Cathedral.
I found my way and was standing in front of the Cathedral wondering what to do next, as the door seemed to be closed.Just then a coach load of Japanese tourist came up with their guide. He asked me to explain my sack and stick and shell and with that they set off in a frenzy of photography. What a experience. It made me feel firstly, ' I must be a real pilgrim.' Then a bit of a freak, a tourist sideshow in the tour guides working day.I was glad to get away. I walked through the city to the University. I had been told that I could get a sello on my pilgrim passport there. What I was not told was that I would have to walk well out of my way to get it. It was the end of the day, however, so what the heck!
A shortish walk out of town to Cizur Menor. This village is at the top of a cruel little hill that takes it out of you. Not too welcome at the end of a longish day's walking.The countryside was now more rolling that straight up and down as in the three previous days. This hill is really the first of gentle hills that go on for several hours up and then the same down
The Alberque in Cizur Menor is a delight. Run by the Roncal family with a
beautiful garden setting. It has been developed over many years as a place
of refreshment or pilgrims. For many year Mr, Mrs Roncal have given
themselves to this work. Mrs Roncal is a healer of feet without equal in
this part of the Camino. On my last visit,October 2008 she demonstrated
the effectiveness of burn cream for blisters on the feet.
She was also on her own as her husband had passed away since my last visit. I
wonder who will take on her work when it is time for her to stop. She was
saying that she does it all herself these days. I wanted to say, 'give us a job!
I'll take it on from where you leave off'. Being English and polite I didn't.
I wonder what would have happened if I had.
Round about now Hans turns up. He did stay late to have quiet shower after
something of a lie in, and his long German legs have gotten him to the bottom
of the short nasty hill at the same time as my sawn of jobbies have. We walk up
the hill together. He tells me about his day, I cannot remember any of the
details now. I do not tell him about mine which has been another 15 rounds
with the great big problem. a few tears thrown in for good measure. I ache
and I hurt inside. But for now I listen as he tells me about the plans for the
evening. Hans was the one who said that we should aim for Cizur. Get a good
place to stay, blast through the City of Pamplona, and catch a bus back into
town after a rest. So we did.
I stood on the wrong side of the road waiting for that bus that would take us
into the city and to the famous Tapas bars. The bus came. It was on the
correct side the one I was standing on. It felt wrong.
My mind was clearly still in the UK.
The Bus is a short ride, down the hill and into the main areas of town. Hans
pokes me. It's time to get off. So I do and so does he. We cross the road and
walk through the streets. Hans tells me that the bus home is on the opposite
side of the roundabout. I take mental note of the exact place. It does not
strike me why he is so keen to make sure I know where to catch the bus.
Soon it will. To be precise one beer later. We had ordered a couple of tapas,
nothing very big, and he says' I'll see you later. All the bars along here have
different tapas, try a few'. With that he is off. This is not what I had expected.
I thought that he might be able to tell about Pamplona and we might chat
for a little. The was a little 7 minutes to be exact. So I did as he had said and
moved on to another bar. The long evening tapas supper rather ground to a
halt at that point. I had a couple more pieces and caught the bus to
Maison Roncal. Pilgrimage has some surprises not everyone turns out as you
expect. For the most part they do, but now and again.......
I got up early the next morning. Today was to be the day when I got going. I
had looked at the guide. The next section was to Puente la Riena. 20k. If I
cut the section beyond into two and did half of that as well as today's section
I would cover about 30k, if I stopped at Cirauque. Could it be done? I think
I can!
As for Hans, I never saw him again. That 'short Little fella' he had called me.
Well that 'Short little fella' was going to sleep in a town further on that you
tonight. So good night Vienna..
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